Renewable Carbon Project
The aim of the project was to test and validate the technical feasibility of the different PHA polymer and composite resins to make mono and multifilament fibres. Fashion for Good worked with the Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute (NIRI) to run the melt spinning trials to allow for a comparative evaluation. The initial scope of the project also included end of use testing including degradation testing. However the project partners decided to prioritise additional spinning trials over degradation testing.
Problem Statement
Polyester dominates 52% of the global fibre market. As the world’s most widely used fibre, it also contributes heavily to the 73% of textiles that are landfilled or incinerated each year. Being a synthetic, petroleum-based fibre, polyester doesn’t naturally decompose, and its production further drives fossil fuel dependence.
Renewable carbon sources like biomass and carbon capture and utilisation (CCU) polymers are gaining momentum as sustainable alternatives. However, more research is needed to assess their environmental impact, technical viability, commercial feasibility, and country-specific policies for end-of-use solutions. One promising renewable alternative is polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), a family of polymers derived through bacterial fermentation of waste feedstocks. PHAs are unique in that they can biodegrade in both marine and compost environments, yet further development is required to adapt PHAs for fibre production.
To date, PHA’s most established applications include packaging, food services, agriculture, and medical products. Producing high-performing fibres from PHA, however, has proven challenging and requires additional research and development.
Executive Summary
Fashion for Good launched the Renewable Carbon Project in June 2021 with catalytic funding from the Laudes Foundation in collaboration with Bestseller, Norrona, PVH Corp. and the Fabrics Division of W. L. Gore & Associates.
The project focused on running lab scale trials using the PHA polymer pellets produced by the participating innovators, Danimer Scientific, IBANNS, Fullcycle Bioplastics, Paques Biomaterials and Aircarbon (formerly Newlight Technologies). The hypothesis was that the trials would be initially run to produce monofilament, moving to multi filament once mono filament was successfully produced.
The results demonstrated that it was not feasible to make fibres using a 100% PHA polymer, all innovators blended the PHA resin with other biopolymers in order to enable the polymers to be melt spun. NIRI were able to produce multifilament yarns using some of the innovators’ resins but further technology developments will be necessary to improve the melt drawability of the material and avoid breakages.
As the project evolved, partners opted to continue melt-spinning trials, postponing degradation testing to concentrate on enhancing the technical performance of the polymers. During this period, Fullcycle Bioplastics went into administration and ceased operations.
Goals of the Project
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Conduct a qualitative and quantitative due diligence assessment
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Test the technical feasibility of using PHA polymers and blended composites to make monofilament and multifilament fibres with a third party institute
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Assess the end of use pathways for the PHA polymers and blended composites by conducting degradation testing with a third party institute
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Project Results
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It was not possible to make mono or multifilament fibres using 100% PHA resins, all innovators produced a resin which was a blend of PHA and other biopolymers.
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Blends with other biopolymers might improve the heat sensitivity and the tackiness of the fibres, ultimately improving spinnability.
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There was success in producing mono filament fibres and some success making multi filament fibres.
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The road for commercial scale up of PHA fibres will be a long one and significant investment will be needed to further validate fibre applications.
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End of use testing will be key in assessing whether the final resins (likely a blend of biopolymers) are marine degradable and home compostable.
Funder
Innovation Partners
Project Partners
Innovators
Implementation Partners
Relevant Resources
Fashion for Good Launches The Renewable Carbon Textiles Project
Consortium Plans PHA Fibres For Fashion
Amsterdam-based Fashion for Good is launching the Renewable Carbon Textiles Project, bringing together a powerful consortium to accelerate the development of polyhydroxyalkanoates or PHA polymer fibres – a promising biosynthetic alternative to fossil based fibres with the potential to reduce carbon emissions in the fashion supply chain.
Other Projects
The Next Stride: Bio-based Materials for Footwear Soles
“The Next Stride: Bio-based Materials for Footwear Soles” aims to validate the performance and environmental impact of bio-based polymers as sustainable alternatives to the fossil fuel-derived materials currently used in footwear soles. The objective is to collectively de-risk the transition to these “next-generation” materials by rigorously testing their technical properties and assessing environmental benefits. Ultimately, the purpose is to accelerate the adoption of these bio-based solutions and pave the way for a more sustainable footwear industry.
Beyond50 Denim: Combining Cottonised Hemp And Green Chemistry
“Beyond50 Denim: Combining Cottonised Hemp And Green Chemistry” aims to validate the performance and environmental impact of cottonised hemp processed with green chemistry to act as a true alternative to cotton in denim applications. The project goal is to evaluate the performance of SEFF’s cottonised hemp fibre in combination with Fibre52’s bio-friendly chemistry solution within denim fabric applications with a total hemp content of 50% and above. The fabrics will be benchmarked against conventional 100% cotton denim with a specific focus on handfeel and aesthetic characteristics.
Price Parity Toolkit
The Price Parity Toolkit (PPT) was designed to help bridge the price gap between next-gen* and conventional materials. Developed by Fashion for Good with the support of Canopy, this industry-supported framework introduces a financing mechanism that decouples price premiums at early stages of the supply chain to enable adoption and drive the scale of lower-impact materials.
